And yes, I’m here and I’m still alive….! When I passed through the border for Mauritania I should have bought a simcard, but like an idiot I didn’t, thinking I would get one in Nouadhibou but apparently you can only get a simcard if you are a resident, and as much as I tried in Nouadhibou, I couldn’t buy one so I’ve had no data. Ahh well, radio silence for a few days can’t be a bad thing…
The crossing from Morocco to Mauritania was simple and easy, taking about 45 minutes. The crossing to Mauritania on the other hand was an exercise in staying calm, being patient and trying to stay in the shade… I was determined to make the crossing myself but gave up after 5 mins and paid 20 eu to a ‘fixer’ to help me through the process, and I’m glad I did as there is no way I would have been able to do it myself. I would still be there now otherwise….
The process on the Mauritania side took around 2.5 hours, but I’m lucky because on two wheels you can skip the queues of waiting traffic and it’s quite accepted that you just wheedle through the massive queues of trucks, cars and campervans and go to the front. It can take up to 8 hours if you are on four wheels and I’ve heard tales of some 4-wheel travellers having to stay overnight. I felt quite sorry for the border staff as they are severely understaffed, and with a very busy border, they are just swamped. This is why it takes so long to get through. You just have to be very patient and learn to smile a lot and chill out at every opportunity. If the various offices had signs telling you where to go I suppose it could be simpler, but for a first-time traveller, it was all a mystery – which is why I needed to use a ‘fixer’.
The ride south to Nouadhibou only took 90 mins (plus three checkpoints) and I headed for Villa Maguela, which is the perfect stopping off point for overlanders heading north or south. I stayed for three nights as the Villa is an oasis of calm in sea of chaos….
Victor and Tish are superb and you can camp, park your campervan or stay in a room, and the breakfast and evening meals are superb, just like a banquet. I also had camel meat for the first time, and found it to be a bit like haggis. The view is magnificent and I went swimming in the warm waters near a flock of Pelicans, which was a great way to decompress after the border.
While I was here I also managed to do some overdue maintenance on the V-Strom. Besides adjusting the chain and anything else I could adjust, I also took the tank off to remove the air filter and give it a clean. Fortunately I got the bike under a tree to give me some shade as the sun was strong and hot.
Nouadhibou is a large town – or small city – and it has its own charm. I have never seen so many old cars which look as though they should be on the scrapyard but are still driving. Mostly taxis, and many with their bumpers being held on with string, and some even without wheel-arches. I got my hair cut while I was here. I asked for it short, and it was the shortest haircut I’ve ever had. But, I don’t mind as I’m sure it will be cooler for riding.
The town is dusty, sandy and sometimes modern and sometimes crumbling, but wherever I went the people were welcoming and pleased to see me. The driving was good fun as there doesn’t seem to be any rules. It’s just a matter of ‘you don’t hit me and I don’t hit you’. Definitely every man for himself…! I really do like Nouadhibou. At first it looks very scruffy, but it really does have it’s own charm and I felt very welcome every minute of my stay.
