DAY ONE – Today I rode to the island village of Joal Fadiout, which is about 38km north of Palmirin. I stopped there yesterday but they wouldn’t let me cross the bridge so I went back today without my luggage. As soon as I stopped I was surrounded by people all wanting to sell things or offer me a boat trip around the Delta. I just locked up the bike and went quickly away and walked the 1km across the bridge to the Island made of sea-shells.
The Island community is made up of Muslims and Christians who live happily together in life and death, as they also share the same cemetry on a separate island, which is also made of sea-shells and linked by a small bridge. There have been people living in the area since the 11th century but the Island started to establish itself in the 17th century, first as houses on stilts and then over time, and because shell-fish were plentiful, on a bed of sea-shells which built up to what the Island is today.
The Island is only small but there are many houses, mostly small square mud-built houses with very ornate windows and doors. As you start walking into the village it quickly becomes a maze of small alleys, some the width of a donkey-trap and many the width of a person. Pigs and chickens roam freely, and the centrepiece of the Island is a large church with a huge spire.
I spent a few hours walking around the island and by the time I returned to my bike I was hot and tired and craved the comfort of my tent, a cool breeze and a huge cup of tea.
DAY TWO – Another reason I wanted to come to Palmarin was because it is close to the Saloum Delta National Park. The Saloum Delta is a 760-square-kilometre (190,000-acre) national park. Established in 1976, it is situated within the Saloum Delta at the juncture of the Saloum River and the North Atlantic. I asked the guy at the campsite about visiting the park and he said there was a German couple on the campsite who were also interested so he arranged to take us. The German couple were travelling in a huge Uni-mog and were going as far as southern Senegal before heading north again.
Taking a taxi to Djiffer we exited the taxi on a very beach where there was literally hundreds of boats all moored to the wide flat beach. All the boats are the same style small or large Pirogue, with the only difference being the brightly coloured paintwork. Besides being used for fishing, they are also used to move people or move freight. We were led down to a Pirogue and quite soon we were leaving and heading across the estuary towards the salt-marshes.
First we stopped at an island village which comprised of proper houses as well as traditional huts. In the village there was a fish hatchery where they bred lots of fish on an industrial scale. Fishing is an industry here, but due to over-fishing by Chinese and Russian trawlers, fishing has become difficult so to help the local economy the hatchery releases fish into the salt marshes to help the local fishermen. This particular hatchery was supported by the Canadian Government. After that we went to another village on a beach that was made of wooden shacks. We visited the local Shaman who gave us all a necklace and then sang us some songs. Nearby there were some Pirogues moored on the beach and the crewman were all swimming and laughing in the water. It was something I will always remember. He also gave us some cold drinks which was made from peppers, mango, baobab, papaya and ginger – and wow. What a kick. It was really spicy but it really did cool you down.
Leaving the village behind we headed back across the estuary to Djiffer. When we got back to the beach it must of been peak commute time as there seemed to be thousands of people all getting on boats. It seemed like chaos, but it was all working. Soon after that caught our taxi and we was back at the campsite – and back to the cool breeze coming from the sea. The whole day had cost about £20 and it was well worth seeing this part of Senegal. The saddest part was seeing lots of plastic caught in the reeds of the salt marshes. Its not just here though, wherever you stop on the coast in this part of the world the beaches are covered in plastic waste – bottles, nets, and the million and one other bits of discarded plastic. Yes, you do see a lot of plastic waste as you travel around Senegal but on the coast I think Senegal unfairly ends up with all the plastic rubbish that comes in from the sea due to the local currents.
The Saloum Delta is beautiful. Really beautiful and its a part of the world I will always remember. Everyone we met was so happy to meet us. So friendly and so welcoming, and it was a wonderful day.
