It’s been a busy few days at Lago Trasimeno, and feeling restless I decided to get on the road again. I was going to head south for Bari, and then catch a ferry over to Greece, but at the last moment I decided to go to Ancona instead and then catch a ferry to Split in Croatia. It’s been around 30 years since I’ve been in that region of the Balkans so I want to go and see it again.
On the way to Ancona I stopped at Assisi. I parked in the underground car park and walked the short distance to the Basilica. It was hot outside, especially in bike-gear, but it lovely and cool inside the Basilica. First I visited the crypt for St Francis, and then the upper and lower churches and marvelled at the artwork on the ceilings and walls. It’s simply beyond words. It was nearly lunch-time so after this beautiful church, I made my way to Ancona for the ferry.
I arrived at Ancona in the late afternoon and managed to find an ATM. I also found a supermarket to get some snacks for the ferry. I got to the ferry terminal about 4.30 and was directed to a building that said ‘Terminal’. It was next to the ferry I was due to catch but then I noticed vehicles starting to queue on the other side of the dockyard, so getting back on the bike I eventually found the gate they were using. Queuing again I got to the front and was told I need a paper ticket, as the ticket on my phone was no good. So, turning around again and anxiously circling around I found the ticket office about 1km away. Jumping off the bike and going into this obscure terminal I queued up again, painfully aware that the closing time was approaching. Finally getting to a window I showed my online ticket and was issued with a paper ticket. Back on the bike I headed back to the gate again and eventually got through and joined the queue of around 200 bikes. Phew…!
Besides lots of normal bike travellers from all over Europe, I chatted to a couple from Australia on their GS. There was also a lot of Harleys from all over Italy who were going to Croatia for a rally. A little later there was a huge rumbling sound, and then a little over 100 Honda Africa Twins all turned up. With riders from all over Europe on factory machines as part of a Honda Offroad experience, they were heading over to Croatia to ride the TET trails all the way to Istanbul.
Getting onto the ferry was easy enough, and grabbing a few bits off the bike I headed upstairs. Usually in Europe if you have a cabin booked you get your key-card with your paper ticket as you pass though access control, but here I had to go to reception and queue again to get my cabin card. By the time I got to my cabin, I was a little tired and hot under the collar. After a cooling shower I went on the upper deck to watch leaving harbour, and with a warm breeze blowing across the deck we left Ancona at 7.30pm.
It was a great cabin. I paid around £140 for the crossing and an extra £45 for the cabin. It was actually cheaper to get a cabin with a window than an inside cabin, which are usually the cheaper cabins. The cabin was clean, comfortable and a great shower. Later I went for some food. There was the eatery for the posh people, the one for the less so, and then the one for minions like me. I ended up with the world biggest pannini and two bottles of Becks, which I took back to my cabin. I was soon asleep.
We arrived in Split at 7am on a sunny and warm morning. I had been up since 6 so managed to get to the bike as soon as they allowed us down into the ‘garage’. I was off the ferry quite quickly, and riding out of Split then south, I headed for the Bosnia border crossing just before Posusje. There were no other vehicles at the border so I was soon stamped out of the EU and then stamped into Bosnia. About 4km after the border is the town of Posusje, and I stopped at the Croatia Osiguranje office to buy insurance for the bike. One week of insurance cost 17eu, and if I want to extend, all I have to do is visit another CO office and because I’m on the system, it would be quick.
After that I was heading for Mostar in Bosnia. Rather than going straight to Mostar I made a detour through the mountains, heading north west, then circling east and then south. I got to Mostar about 2pm and found my Guest House. Following Google Maps, it took me through the old town centre and at one point I ended up riding through a pedestrian shopping area – which was surreal. But then I was overtaken by a guy on a scooter, so I didn’t feel too bad.
The Guest House is in the old town of Mostar and just a few minutes walk from the old bridge. I am staying at Villa Globus and which I booked this morning through Booking dot Com when I was waiting for my insurance. I’m here for four nights and it’s costing me £88. It even has its own cat… While its very hot outside – about 32 degrees this afternoon – inside it is very cool, which was a nice surprise. It’s also comfortable and en-suite, so now I can get some laundry done in privacy. But more importantly, I also want to do some sightseeing, both in Mostar and the local area as there is a lot of history here.
