Leaving my campsite outside Tivat about 8.30, I joined the traffic jam to get out of Tivat. They are actually constructing a motorway from Tivat to Budva, which seems to be most of the problem. The slow moving traffic and rough surface lasted for about 15km. Passing through Budva, it looks like another holiday destination. I saw a sign for ‘old town’ but it was early morning and I just wanted to make up some distance, so I decided not to go for a nosey in case I got caught up in any more traffic.
Eventually I reached the border between Montenegro and Albania. There was a huge traffic queue so being on two wheels, I sneaked up to near the front. I needed insurance for the bike, and after the border there are two shacks saying ‘insurance’ – go to the second one further along. He spoke good English and the cost was 15eu for 15 days insurance. Yep, 15eu for 15 days. Bargain..!
After that I headed for Shkoder and got caught up in another huge traffic jam on the outskirts – due to four lanes of traffic merging into two. Eventually I got through and before long was heading north. I was heading for Puke because I wanted a bank or ATM to get some Albanian money. There was a Western Union in town, so I easily changed some Euros into Lek’s. The LEK’s have alot of zero’s and I think it’s around 100 Leks to 1 Euro.
After that I continued heading north into the mountains and in the late afternoon, and just after Xeth, I managed to find a patch of grass where I could put up my tent for the evening. It was a lucky find. There are some trees separating the tent and the bike from the road, so we’re anonymous. I am quite high up and I have a superb view looking north across the opposite mountains and the valley below. This evening I could see the lights of Krume flickering in the distance.
This morning’s ride was frustrating because of the traffic, but this afternoon was utterly superb. The 80km from Vau-Deges to Puke and then up to Xeth was four hours of twists and turns with multiple switchbacks going up and coming down. It was exciting, exhilarating and sometimes a bit scary, especially as most of the Albanians tend to drive fast and in the middle of the road… By the time I found somewhere to camp I was tired. Very tired. And tomorrow it’s much more of the same as I want to head in a clockwise direction around the Drin, which is a 20 mile long lake, eventually finishing at Kukes.
Why am I here…? Well, I spend a long time looking at maps and the topography of a country. The topography – the hilliness – of northern Albania has always seemed interesting to me, so I’ve come to see it.
Today was only around 220km, but it’s taken most of the day, with this morning being spent in slow traffic, and this afternoon spent on winding roads going up and down and around mountains. Sitting outside my tent overlooking the mountains, I can look back and say it was definitely worth the time, the energy and the miles. I love the view. The air is mild and warm. And considering I am so high up, it’s still a warm evening. With the exception of the rustling of nearby trees, it’s peacefully quiet and I’ve found the perfect place to chill….
