What a superb week. While I’ve been here I’ve done so much. I even managed to see the Caravaggio at the main Art Museum, which was a high point for me. I just love Naples. I love the vibe, the energy, the fact that it’s not a pristine city centre like most cities in Europe. I also love the Neopolitans, who although may appear quite nonchalant, are actually genuine, hospitable and warm. I just love the vibe.
You really must come to Napoli. It’s a great place to visit. And if you do visit and go to Pompeii or Herculaneum to marvel at this living history, you must visit the Napoli Archaeological museum, where you will see most of the artefacts and wall frescos from Pompeii and Herculaneum.
And the food…. Please don’t get me started in the food – as it’s the best in the world… I was lucky in that the trattoria on the campsite also had their own pizza chef, who made superb pizzas. I know because I had several…
I love the carefree attitude of the Neapolitans and the way they use their phones while driving or riding a motorbike with complete skill and utter nonchalance, the way that they smoke with utter abandon and enthusiasm, the stylish people of all ages who carouse around the city, the sheer volume of so many beautiful things to see, the way that food actually means something here, the way that motorbikes can dodge and weave through the traffic and its accepted by the four-wheel drivers, the 28 degree day’s and 20 degree nights, and did I mention the food…?
NAPOLI. A couple of times I rode into Napoli, and it was easy to get in and out and also get around. There’s lots of places you can park the bike easily as there are bike bays everywhere. And also lots of pavements, as there is not a problem with parking your bike on a pavement. I also got the train into Napoli twice, as it was easy, quick an cheap. There was a train station five minutes walk from the campsite and trains every 30 minutes. Napoli is a tourist destination so you will see lots of tourists. My advice here is to know where you want to go before you get into the city. It just saves time. And there is so much to see in Napoli. But, there are alot of immigrants so pickpockets beware and have your wits about you.
POMPEII. It really is a superb place to visit. There are three access gates and the cost of entry is 20eu. The west gate is next to the train station and the south gate next to the coach park – so they are always busy with humongous queues. The east gate is near the town, and if you are riding/driving then head for the east gate as there are next to no queues – and you are straight into the Coliseum. Because there is so much to see, get there early to avoid the bulk of the coach trips, and don’t go at weekends – as its mobbed. Also, wear good footwear, as it can be hard-going sometimes.
HERCULANEUM. Whereas Pompeii has size, Herculaneum has everything else. Its smaller but in my opinion, its better than Pompeii. I parked outside the entrance on the pavement, but there is parking and a train station nearby if you are not on a bike. It was around 15eu to get in, and again, well worth the visit. There is also a small museum where you can see some of the artifacts.
THE AMALFI. The Amalfi coastline is something else. These amazing winding roads are built into the mountains and hug the coast. You start at Sorrento, which in itself isn’t a bad place to visit, with lots of places to eat – and of course shop for trinkets. I went right down to the ferry area and parked the bike for free. If you are in a car or van – there is limited parking but you’ll have to pay. Its worth going down to the ferry area because there’s some great views along the coastline. Back on the road and heading south along the coast – is just an amazing ride. I would never do this in a car as its just too congested during the daytime with normal traffic plus lots of tourist coaches and campervans. It does get frustrating at times being stuck behind a coach or slow campervan but there are always overtaking opportunities, and besides, its quite normal for motorbikes and scooters to sit in the middle of the road when scooting through the traffic. POSITANO, PRAIANO, CONCA DI MARINI and AMALFI – are on the route and are just beautiful places to see, ride through or visit.
CASERTA PALACE. This wonderful palace is located about 35km north east of Napoli – and is well worth the visit, costing 16eu to see this beautiful baroque palace plus 5eu for an audio-guide. There is a large underground car-park adjacent to the palace, so parking isn’t a problem. As soon as you park, someone will try to sell you a tourist guide-book costing 15eu – but you can buy them from the palace for 5eu, so just say “Non Grazie” and walk on…. It’s the most magnificent place I have ever visited. Built for the Bourbon Kings, King Charles VII of Naples commissioned the build in 1752 but he abdicated before it was completed. Much of the main building was completely by 1770 but wasn’t truly finished until around 1860. During construction, they even moved the town to make way for the army or builders. The size of it is vast, so you’ll need to spend most of the day here is you want to see the palace as well as going to the very top of the gardens. I just couldn’t believe the sheer amount of marble and the craftsmanship of the interior, the entrances and the staterooms and the adjoining rooms. During WW2 part of the palace was damaged by bombing, and the palace was also looted by the Nazi’s and the locals. It took many years to get the palace back to its former glory – but it is beautiful, and well worth visiting.
Bella NAPOLI
The Roman Ruins of POMPEII
The Roman Ruin of HURCULANEUM
The AMALFI
CASERTA PALACE
