This morning I rode about 110kms down to Saint Nazaire. Before WW2 started Saint Nazaire was a new and modern port. With its basin dating from 1856 and lock gates into the basin, it could accommodate ships easily and became the gateway to South America for many ocean liners, emigres and trade.
During WW2 the Nazi’s needed a jump off point into the Atlantic so they built a U-boat base here. With the forced labour of over 160,000 men, the first pens were finished by late 1941 and by 1943 it was finalised with 14 pens that could also be used as dry-docks. Six of the pens could hold two U-boats each, while eight of the pens were narrower and could hold only one U-boat. At the back of the pens were the weapons, stores and machine shops to keep the submarines operational. With a protected lock leading to the sea, it was formidable, and by the war’s end the town was virtually eliminated by allied bombing, with only the U-boat pens left standing amidst the smoking rubble.
Opposite the pens, in what used to be the protected lock, sits the French Submarine Espadon. A Diesel/Electric submarine, it was launched in 1958 and retired from service in 1986. Knowing what UK submarines of this era were like, I found it very interesting to see the differences. The French Submarines are completely different. This is the second French Submarine I’ve visited, and to be honest, I thought they were very advanced in their layouts compared to ours. Especially with the propulsion. It was also at the southern end of the docks that in 1942 HMS Campbeltown, packed with explosives, was rammed into the lock gates. Pretending to be a commando raid, the ship blew up the following day causing a lot of damage to the lock and the dockside.
On the way back from Saint Nazaire I stopped off at Ranouet Castle. Located at Herbignac, just south of La Roche-Bernard, it was built around 1250 and was updated in the 14th, 15th and 17th century to take into account advances in weaponry – canons. It was a pretty formidable castle. Protected by two circular moats, there was also marshland for about 5km on either side which also added to its protection. The water level in the marshes could be controlled by a sluice system which in turn provided water for drinking, grain mills and also maintaining the water level in the moats.
These days the inner shell is hollow and the inner buildings have long gone, including the big ornate house for the Lord, but you still get a sense of how it may have been in the middle ages, though realistically it was probably smelly with all the animals and alternating between too hot and bitterly cold depending on the time of year. For most of its life it was used as a statement of power, but during the Wars of Religion in the 16th century, the castle was a Catholic stronghold and was used as a base to attack the Protestant northern parts of the region. Just outside the castle, in the stables, was a potters workshop who make their pottery using black clay. I bought myself a superb mug with a dragon on the front, and cant wait to use it for my coffee.
Another great day out in Breton. It was cool riding to Saint Nazaire this morning but by this afternoon it was a perfect 20 degrees. It’s my last day today as tomorrow I’m heading back to the UK, and unfortunately into hibernation for the winter. Booooooo…
Normandy and Brittany are close to the major ferry-ports, so if you are thinking of travelling abroad next year and need encouragement – then do it. The roads are great, the French ever so helpful, the food wonderful and the scenery is perfect.
